Back in the centre near the station, the elegantly revived 1920s Markthalle offers hungry lunchtime crowds the world on a plate under its huge domed roof. Expect cheese and wood-fired bread, street-food stands dish up everything from Ethiopian tibs to Venezuelan arepas (maize patties) and Italian gelato. Grab a regional beer from HausBAR.  The Rhine is Basel’s backdrop and lifeblood and jumping in for a swim is something of a rite of passage. At the tourist office on Barfüsserplatz, get yourself a Wickelfisch, a fish-shaped waterproof bag to keep your kit dry, then head to Kleinbasel’s riverbank, strip to your bathers and go with the flow, splashing past the city…