Faded fishing boats bob in the water at Marina Grande, while behind them ice-cream-coloured houses in shades of pistachio, peach, raspberry and lemon are precariously perched, higgledy-piggledy, around the bay. As you arrive, this is the first glimpse you will have of Procida, a picture-postcard-perfect Italian island that’s recently been chosen as Italy’s next Capital of Culture. Some 14 miles off the coast of Naples, it takes just 40 minutes to arrive at the marina by hydrofoil, but it’s a world away from the gritty city you’ve left behind. Despite the island’s pretty, winding streets being the scenic backdrop of films such as The Talented Mr Ripley and Il Postino,…